Don't try this at home, kids

But before we get into that, yesterday…

One of the caverns in the longest road tunnel in Europe at 25km

We drove to Hemsedal in search of certain ice and after a bit of scouting and waiting for the shop to open so we could buy the guidebook (not the greatest, it must be said), we decided on Haugsfossen - a nice short route of two pitches that we did in one. We also did Indre Haugsfoss next to it.  Going at WI4 and 4+, they seemed pretty easy, which is promising.  We also had company, the first time in over six weeks of climbing in Norway (excluding Toby who we purposefully met) with two chaps climbing nearby.

We then took a look at Hydnesfossen which may be, and, I say this in a whisper, our main objective for the trip now. It’s a beast.

Driving back we took a look around Upper Lærdalen and found at least three more good routes to climb. So at last, things are looking up!

Seltunfossen

Today we chose Seltunfossen, a large WI4+/5 that is quite close to the E16 (sort of like a motorway, but lamer, but then again, the Norwegians put roads where we wouldn’t dare).  It has a long approach climb before the falls steepen up - maybe 200m of WI2-3.  We semi-soloed this (yes, I have made this term up, basically I didn’t put much pro in) on one rope.  On arriving at the base of the start of the route proper, I asked James where the second rope was.  Which brings me on to the title of this post…

Little do I know the distinct lack of ropes that is about to present itself

Don’t try this at home, kids!

One should probably not attempt a 150m WI4+/5 on one half rope, tested to only 55kg. But hey, I is not one.  After about ten minutes of James apologising, I set off. The climb was pretty straight forward with three full pitches of steepish but sticky ice with great footholds.  An encouraging result as I was sure to climb well within my capabilities due to the slightly flimsy rope.  The big worry, of course, was the descent - 30m abseils would make for a very late night.  We took a gamble and headed off left and up and hoped we could fight our way down through the trees.  We could, and it ended up being probably not much longer than abseiling with two ropes.

On the way home, James couldn’t get the cruise control to work. Until he realised it required being in fifth gear. He was doing 75 in third. Okay, I’ll be fair; it was 75kph.

Nick on ice on ice

Let me start by using a photo to express my current mood:

This is a waterfall 

So, we have arrived in Norway. It's hot. Well, too warm anyway. The potential out here is staggering. Potential is of little use right now though.

Today we scouted around and most areas were found to be wanting. A good freeze would bring a lot back, but that's not on the forecast.

Going up high we drove to 'magic lake' that was at about 1000m. Above it, a soaring cliff band, that was...  completely devoid of ice.  James was so sure.

Shrew by the lake - is this magic?

Turning around we decided to climb one of the smaller icefalls near the road - hardly world class, but at least there is a few days worth of stuff up here if push comes to shove. I was thinking how to describe my feelings while climbing this, and I think it can be best summed up as 'preoccupied with the discomfort of not having climbed much ice for a while'.  My body knew it was easy, my head knew it was easy, but it didn't feel easy.  We have taken to naming climbs we do, just for our own reference - not to claim an ascent of something with a name somewhere that's been climbed many times - James proposed Advanced Brain Decay after our usual first-route-of-the-season faff. I then needed reminding how to use a belay plate (it was new and borrowed so not quite as dumb as it seems).  I still think Advanced Brain Decay is better suited to a WI6 mega route than a 40m WI4 next to the road.  We may use it properly one day.

Terrible feet

So the plan is to check out one other higher altitude option and then we have Hemsedal - we are fairly sure there is stuff there, but it is a long drive.

On our return to the cabin, this was waiting in my inbox, and cheered me up a bit.  Without my calming influence, Willow woke up a lot earlier than normal this morning apparently!

Up in Lyngen, where we have climbed before, the scenery is stunning, but there aren't the classic narrow fjords that you imagine - here there are vertical walls rising straight out the sea.  There is no doubt in my mind, that in a good year, this is where it is at.  This is not a good year.

Vangsgaarden Cabins in Aurlandvangen

It must be whisky time now. We are in Norway, so it's Japanese whisky, obviously.

2014 - the year of sludge (so far)

And thus, the new year was upon us, in all it’s fourtheenthly glory.

It is time for a wee roundup.

Firstly, I have finished all three blocks of T25. Apart from a couple of sessions I biffed at the end.  Is it any good? Yes. Is it better than Insanity? No.  Of course it takes a lot less time, but in the most part I found it less intense too.  The speed workouts are so fast I tended to need a break because I lost focus and confused my feet rather than getting exhausted.  I do like the Gamma workouts using weights and will continue to do them until Norway – they seem quite relevant with lots of shoulder work.  In short, if at all possible, choose Insanity but if you are really pushed for time, T25 will do fine.

New Year itself was apparently quite good. A Mexican night at Gav and Jane’s had me smashed on margaritas after an hour – I think four months of fatherhood had given me some pent up aggression in the drinking department and I went at the array of tequila, whisky and gin like George Best with a new liver. So new year’s day was spent with me in bed and Holly cursing me for wasting the day and abandoning the baby.  I would never drink again...   ...for all of two days as it turned out.

How I feel most of the time

Willow is sleeping well once she is asleep but hating the act of falling asleep itself.  Holly went to the gym last week and Willow cried for an hour and a half nonstop – which is really quite distressing.  After an age I got her off to sleep.  We hope her evening grumps are due to her last jab so should wear off soon.  This week we have stopped her midnight feed and she pretty much sleeps through from 2030 until 0730 – with the occasional thrash around that wakes Holly up.  Getting her off to sleep is hard though – its like a war of attrition and is leaving me a bit psychologically drained.  When you only have two hours with the wee creature after getting home from work, its not very nice spending half of that battling her as she refuses to sleep. Holly thinks it’s because she is starting to realise it means she is left alone. What a needy moose we have.  Of course, in all other respects, its just as brilliant as ever.

Training for Norway is going nowhere fast. We moved the trip back two weeks as it’s been so warm out there. I wasted those two weeks eating and drinking so today is effectively 1 Jan again with 31 days to go. I currently feel like I made mostly of a chocolaty, whisky infused, sludge. On the plus side, it is finally getting chilly out there.

Glimmers of hope

Issues

I have some...

The aberlour a'bunadh (left) is mustard!

My New Year’s Resolution? To drink more world whiskies. Starting with Japan.

Merry Christmas

A belated Merry Christmas from all at Moose Towers

Tyre tribulations

Behold, have you ever seen a puncture quite like this?  I swear, a Stinger would have done less damage.

Not what you want in the pouring rain on the way home from work.  I took shelter in the doorway of a block of flats in order to change the tube (then still had to change the tyre when i got home) – of course I picked flats that were some kind of supported housing and had residents begging from me.

It certainly beats the shard of ’12.

North Norway Ice update

I have finally updated our guide-blog with the info Ian Parnell provided back in (rather ashamedly) February. I can only apologise for the delay – babies have that effect.

He has written a great article in this month’s Climb magazine (Jan ed.).  A preview can be found here but the full article includes some fantastic photos.

I’ll be picking up a copy, if I ever actually make it to the climbing wall again...